[Kwon Eun-jung's Wine Story] The Joyful Journey of a Wine Butler

# A Taste of Italy: The Alluring Journey of Barolo Wine and Friendship Seasoned wine connoisseurs often reserve a special place in their hearts (and cellars) for Barolo wines from northern Italy's Piedmont. They revel in the varietal Nebbiolo and its intricate dance of flavors—firm tannins, floral bouquets, and earthy depths. My recent encounter with Ca’ Viola Barolo Caviot 2020 reveals that modern Barolos can evoke a whirlwind of emotions, leading to unexpectedly convivial evenings. Barolo stands as an affordable gateway to nuanced vintages in the winery landscape. Unlike Burgundy greats, with prices reaching ₩500K to ₩1,000K ($400 to $800) per bottle, Barolo offers critical acclaim and terroir expression at a fraction of that cost, usually within ₩100K to ₩200K ($70-$150). Yet, Barolo's character remains mysterious, as evidenced by a recent encounter of mine. # An Unyielding Encounter Months ago, I procured a coveted bottle: a 2014 Damilano from Liste, the southern slopes of Barolo. Priced around ₩180K to ₩200K, it promised high expectations. Excitedly, I uncorked the bottle, allowing it to breathe for hours before resorting to decanting. Still, its bouquet remained closed off. A chilling realization struck—I was years too early. This wine was meant to blossom by 2035. The spirits of Liste seemed to mock my impatience—a forlorn love, indeed. Soon after, with lowered expectations, I turned to Ca’ Viola Barolo Caviot 2020. Despite its favorable Vivino rating of 4.3, I suspected overzealous optimism from reviewers. Late one night, with little ceremony, I uncorked the bottle while preparing beef stew—a recipe inspired by French boeuf bourguignon, or its Italian cousin, brasato di manzo. These stews, simmered with wine reductions, pair exquisitely with robust reds like Barolo. At first sip, the Caviot was firm, its pronounced tannins unmistakable. My skepticism deepened—how could such a young Barolo deliver? Discouraged, I sealed the bottle and returned it to the kitchen. # A Revelatory Transformation By the following afternoon, with the prior evening's stew demanding a companion, I revisited the Caviot. To my surprise, a remarkable transformation had occurred. The bouquet had exploded with jammy raspberries, fragrant rose petals, earthy undertones, and even a subtle graphite note reminiscent of pencil shavings. The complexity rivaled premier Burgundy Pinot Noirs priced much higher. I was awestruck. Could the spirit of Barolo have intervened overnight? What unfolded before me was nothing short of poetry in a glass. # Friends Gathered, Expectations Reset Elated, I extended an impromptu invitation to friends on our group chat: "Grab a bottle and join me tonight for a wine tasting." Five companions, including one from distant Ilsan, eagerly converged at my place. While I hoped to repeat the wine’s brilliance, refrigeration and vacuum sealing reset its journey. The first cold pour was austere, sharper than my initial taste. It was as if the wine whispered, "How dare you stifle my blossoming nature?" Two hours later, patience paid off. The vibrant berry notes and florals re-emerged, though the earthy flavors and pencil-like minerality had waned. I sighed at the elusive capriciousness of this "modern Barolo." Ca’ Viola’s Caviot stands out with its modern approach. Unlike traditional Barolos, aged in vast Slavonian oak barrels for up to three years, the Caviot matures in smaller 225-liter French oak casks. With shorter maceration periods (about two weeks), it offers less pronounced tannins, leaning toward a livelier profile instead of classical austerity. Such techniques, borrowed from French Burgundy and Bordeaux in the 1980s, foster elegance without sacrificing depth. # The End of a Journey, and the Beginning of New Memories By evening, the empty bottle seemed to nod in approval—a silent compliment to my stewardship. Though unconventional compared to my cellar’s more temperamental vintages, the Caviot 2020 forged memories beyond the liquid itself. It brought people together, turning an ordinary day into an intimate celebration. For seasoned wine enthusiasts and casual enjoyers alike, the real magic of Barolo lies not just on the palate but in the shared moments it inspires—a toast to friendship, patience, and a life well-savored. --- **About the Author** Kwon Eun-jung is a food and wine columnist with over 20 years of journalism experience. After pursuing culinary studies at ICIF (Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners) in Piedmont, Italy, she returned to Korea to pen columns, deliver lectures, and author works like *Wine Meets Tuna Mayo* and *Tasting Italy Through Pasta*.