Discovering Korean Craftsmanship in Duck: Seora's Dry-Aged Duck Steak Revolution

Duck breast steak may be considered a delicacy in Europe, but my first tryst with it in Italy was far from endearing. Unlike Korea’s raw beef "yukhoe," which boasts a clean, familiar taste, Italian duck steak’s nearly raw, blood-seeping preparation was daunting. Its deep crimson hue and gamey aroma left me hesitant to revisit the dish. This initial encounter felt as unfamiliar as the cultural jolt of trying pheasant sashimi for the first time.

Years later, a Korean reinterpretation of this dish caught my attention. A chef friend, preparing to study in Italy, requested duck breast steak as his farewell dish. He sought a well-executed Korean-style duck steak before immersing himself in Italian culinary traditions. The idea of comparing both versions intrigued me, and I embarked on a search for a place in Korea capable of perfecting this nuanced delicacy. Enter "Seora," an unassuming yet elevated restaurant in Hannam-dong aiming to bridge the gap between Korean and European culinary traditions.

The European Approach to Duck: Roots and Challenges

Duck steaks in France and Italy are often served rare or medium-rare, emphasizing the natural iron-rich flavor of the meat. In France, the dish frequently incorporates "canard à l'orange," a pairing of orange sauce with the richness of duck. Italy, meanwhile, leans on Marsala wine-based sauces to complement the bold flavors. However, even these strong pairings struggle to fully mask the characteristic gaminess of duck.

This rare preparation method has its roots in history. During medieval Europe, noble privileges dictated hunting rights, and rare-cooked game—blood included—became a symbol of aristocratic indulgence. The preparation style persists in modern European fine dining. However, for diners unaccustomed to this culinary pedigree, the sight and taste of rare duck can be off-putting. Asking for fully cooked duck breast in France or Italy would likely be seen as blasphemous, much like requesting overcooked pasta at an Italian trattoria.

Seora: Where Tradition Meets Innovation

Seora’s rendition of duck steak eliminates such cultural barriers, offering a unique reinterpretation that resonates with the Korean palate. The restaurant's signature offering features a 20-day dry-aged duck breast steak, meticulously cooked to medium-rare perfection. This preparation avoids the off-putting bloodiness typical of European styles while creating a rich and satisfyingly crisp exterior.

The chef, trained at the Culinary Institute of America (CIA), leans on French cooking techniques but tailors the dish to balance local preferences. Crispy, golden-brown skin enhances the flavor, with just the right amount of fat rendered to enrich each bite. Beneath the crust lies tender, flavorful duck meat—a premium-grade centerpiece elevated by thoughtful accompaniments.

The dish’s sides reflect the same attention to balance. Grilled Korean yeolmu (young radish greens) deliver a peppery, earthy contrast, while a light gravy infused with simmered duck bones underscores the dish’s depth. Together, these elements highlight the chef’s mastery of selectively borrowing from European influences to create something decidedly Korean.

The Spotlight on Duck Leg Confit and Regional Pairings

Buoyed by the success of the duck steak, I sampled another standout dish at Seora: the duck leg confit. Originating as a French preservation method, confit involves slow-cooking meat in its own fat, resulting in a luscious, velvety texture. Seora enhances this time-honored process by pairing the confit leg with velvety pumpkin purée, the sweetness of which complements the duck’s richness. A duck-based sauce ties the dish together, delivering layers of savoriness that linger on the palate.

Such dishes showcase Seora’s alignment with global fine dining trends, where game birds routinely surpass beef cuts in refined menus. Pigeon, quail, and duck, with their complex flavor profiles, are increasingly prized pairings for premium wines in Europe. This shift offers a contrast to Korea’s steak-heavy fine dining culture, where chefs largely focus on beef as the star protein.

For adventurous diners, Seora extends its culinary creativity beyond duck. Their "simesaba," or mackerel sashimi, elevates the fish with grilled scallions, apple slices, and a fragrant yuzu dressing. Unlike the heavily pickled mackerel often served in Japan, Seora’s version achieves a delicate balance between the fish’s natural oils and the bright acidity of its complements. Paired with Spanish Cava, the dish evokes a lighthearted elegance.

Finding Meaning in Culinary Evolution

My visit to Seora was more than just a culinary journey—it felt like a reflection on the evolution of food as a cultural bridge. Watching my chef friend savor dishes that so deftly merged Korean and European influences filled me with quiet pride. His next chapter in Italy may immerse him in centuries-old gastronomic traditions, but Seora offered a fitting prelude rooted in innovation without losing sight of familiarity.

As I footed the bill, my satisfaction extended beyond the incredible meal. This outing was a testament to how culinary artistry transcends borders, challenging and reshaping expectations along the way. Since that memorable farewell, his travel photos from Italy—Piedmontese cheeses and freshly carved prosciutto—remind me of the interconnectedness of our shared culinary experiences.

Plan Your Visit to Seora

• Address: 1st Floor, 74, Itaewon-ro 54-gil, Yongsan-gu, Seoul (600 meters from Hangangjin Station, Exit 3, Subway Line 6)
• Recommendations: Duck Steak (50,000 KRW), Simesaba (27,000 KRW)

In the heart of Hannam-dong, Seora is not just a celebration of Korean reinterpretation but also a testament to the rich tapestry of culinary influences that shape our plates. Whether you're a fan of European traditions or a seeker of something refreshingly unique, its dishes invite you to see duck—and fine dining—in a whole new light.

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About the Author: Kwon Eun-jung has 20+ years of journalistic experience with a specialization in food and wine. A graduate of the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners, Kwon is also the author of "Wine and Tuna Mayo" and "Tasting Italy Through Pasta." Today, he writes columns and lectures on culinary arts, blending insights from his global adventures.