Discover Guryongpo Seafood House: Herring Gwamegi Brings Rare Coastal Flavors to Seoul

As South Korea's temperatures drop below minus 10 degrees Celsius in January, Gwamegi season hits its stride. This oceanic delicacy, traditionally crafted from dried blue-backed fish, has been treasured in coastal communities for generations. While Pacific saury now dominates the supply, true aficionados know the distinctive, briny essence of herring gwamegi—a rarity that’s increasingly coveted, especially in Seoul.

The History and Craft of Gwamegi

Gwamegi, a dish steeped in tradition, is created by air-drying fish such as saury or herring in the salty sea breezes. Historically made from herring, this ingredient diminished in availability after the 1950s as saury became more abundant. Currently, over 90% of the gwamegi in markets applies saury as its base.

The term "gwamegi" hails from the Pohang region. Local fishers once dried the fish by threading them through the eyes with twigs. The name evolved from the Chinese-character-based “gwanmok-eo” (piercing through the eyes) to the softer “gwamegi” still used today. Some older residents even continue to call it “gwanmegi.” Despite the linguistic similarities, the dish is entirely unrelated to freshwater catfish (“maegi” in Korean).

Why Guryongpo Gwamegi Stands Out

Guryongpo, a coastal township in Pohang, has been synonymous with premium gwamegi since its mention as a specialty food during the Joseon Dynasty. According to royal records from King Jeongjo’s reign, herring gwamegi, alongside dried octopus, was once a coveted tribute item from Yeongil—the historical name of Pohang.

What truly sets Guryongpo gwamegi apart is the region’s geographical makeup. Surrounded by Yeongil Bay to the northwest and the East Sea to the northeast and east, the area benefits from an ideal convergence of sea breezes laden with salt, moisture, and purity. These semi-alpine winds gently dry the fish, leaving approximately 30% moisture for an exceptionally tender finish. This approach contrasts with the chewier consistency preferred elsewhere, emphasizing softness and refined flavor.

Although modern production has moved indoors, with over half of gwamegi now crafted in HACCP-certified facilities for uniform quality and sanitation, the traditional sun-drying method in open air yields a richer character for enthusiasts. Sun-dried fish undergo three to four days under seaside conditions, showing hints of red flesh peeking through—a visual cue for premium quality. Pohang locals highly regard “tong-gwamegi,” where the fish remains whole—including its organs—during a two-week drying process. This method creates earthy flavors often compared to beef.

Gwamegi's Nutritional Feast

Beyond the fish itself, gwamegi shines when paired with complementary sea vegetables and aromatics. Wakame (miyeok), kelp, kkosiraegi (thread-like seaweed), and sheets of dried seaweed form the perfect wraps, while garlic stems, fresh green onions, spicy peppers, and raw garlic complete the composition. These layers evoke the saline ambiance of coastal life and underscore the dish’s rich nutrient profile. Packed with protein, omega-3 fatty acids, and devoid of carbohydrates, gwamegi offers a health-conscious dining experience with indulgent flair.

Herring gwamegi is distinct in presentation and pairing. Larger and fleshier than saury, herring requires a prolonged drying stage, resulting in moister textures and intense oceanic depth. Traditionally accompanied by raw garlic and a touch of gochujang (Korean red pepper paste), it delivers a more robust flavor experience compared to the nutty savoriness of saury gwamegi.

Exploring Seoul's Traditional Seafood Scene

In recent years, Seoul has seen a notable rise in demand for authentic, storied dishes, reflecting an evolving interest in cultural culinary experiences. For seekers of genuine herring gwamegi, Guryongpo Seafood House (“Haemul Myungga Guryongpo”) in Yeongdeungpo has become a beloved destination. This restaurant stands out for preparing herring gwamegi daily, ensuring optimal freshness. Noteworthy is their careful removal of skin—a critical step to prevent excessive fishy notes. Interestingly, the discarded skins aren’t wasted; instead, they’re deep-fried and served as complimentary snacks for diners, adding a personal touch that patrons appreciate.

At Guryongpo Seafood House, the herring gwamegi is crafted exclusively through sun-drying techniques. It boasts thick flesh and substantial yet approachable textures, ideal for newcomers. The saury gwamegi also receives glowing reviews for its nutty richness, whether enjoyed solo or bundled in accompaniments. Presentation varies, but diners can expect either neatly cut squares or traditional hand-torn pieces, depending on preference.

For variety, the restaurant’s spicy croaker stew is another highlight accompanied by freshly prepared side dishes and traditional kimchi. The flavors exhibit a comforting homemade quality. A meal is often paired with Hallasan 21 soju, a regular favorite, whose smoothness complements the high-fat content of the seafood offerings.

Capturing the Essence of Tradition

The appeal of gwamegi transcends its taste. Every plate carries the sea breeze, the slow sun-drying process, and the history of centuries-old techniques. This multisensory connection to South Korea’s coastal legacy has drawn a diverse crowd to Guryongpo Seafood House. From older diners to younger generations eager to discover local heritage, the restaurant fills rapidly, illustrating the enduring charm of authentic food.

As consumers grow more invested in connecting with origins and traditions, gwamegi represents more than sustenance—it's an edible story. Whether it’s the salty winds of Pohang’s East Sea or the painstaking craftsmanship, gwamegi serves as a poignant reminder of Korea’s rich culinary roots.

Guryongpo Seafood House: Need-to-Know Details

• Address: 8-2, Yeongsin-ro 54-gil, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seoul (470 meters from Yeongdeungpo Market Station, Line 5, Exit 1)
• Menu Highlights:
• Saury & Herring Gwamegi: 38,000 won
• Herring Gwamegi: 38,000 won
• Seafood Agwijjim (Small): 42,000 won
• Croaker Spicy Stew: 35,000 won