Mungtigi and Malbang Gukbap: A Culinary Journey into North Gyeongsang's Essence

In the heart of Seoul, a haven for regional delicacies is quietly reshaping the city's culinary landscape. On a frosty winter evening, my friends and I found ourselves abuzz over our shared love for yukhoe, the beloved Korean beef tartare. Amid the conversation, a friend brought up "mungtigi," a lesser-known yet revered specialty from Daegu and surrounding areas in North Gyeongsang Province. Unlike the familiar shredded strands of yukhoe, mungtigi—a term derived from Gyeongsang dialect signifying a hunk or chunk—is served in bold, sashimi-like thick cuts of beef round or shank. As a native of Andong, I was intrigued yet unacquainted with its flavors. That curiosity set me on a journey to Malbang Gukbap's Seongsu flagship restaurant, renowned for mongtigi and its unapologetic devotion to Gyeongsang traditions.

Malbang Gukbap: A Slice of North Gyeongsang in Seoul

Positioned in the quieter northern stretch of Seongsu-dong, Malbang Gukbap stands in stark contrast to the area’s bustling southern blocks. This part of the city was once defined by small-scale factories but has since evolved into a district blending remnants of its industrial past with modern redevelopment, including luxury car dealerships and renovated urban spaces. Malbang Gukbap embraces this mix, proudly occupying a repurposed low-slung factory. The restaurant's exterior boldly proclaims, "This is food from Daegu and North Gyeongsang, not Seoul," a refreshing statement of identity amid the polish of Gangnam's slick eateries. Inside, minimalist warmth reigns with harmonious wood tones, high ceilings, and white walls, creating an inviting atmosphere that feels part grand hall, part intimate retreat.

The Artistry of Mungtigi: A Feast for the Senses

Our main order was a half-and-half plate of mungtigi, offering thin slices tailored for local tastes alongside thick cuts that truly embody the dish's robust character. Accompanying the rich, ruby-red beef was Malbang's signature spicy garlic oil sauce, featuring freshly pounded garlic, sesame oil, and a carefully balanced pepper paste. Initially unfamiliar, this sauce proved potent—a single dab sufficed to deliver fiery depth.

The visual allure of mungtigi stole the show, with its deep crimson hues reminiscent of pomegranate seeds and the intense palette of a Mark Rothko painting. The freshness of the same-day-slaughtered beef was palpable; staff noted that mungtigi uses meat untouched by aging, maintaining its vivid shade and unique texture, unlike yukhoe, which relies on briefly aged cuts. The dish’s clean, light flavor surprised us, offering a subtle treat more aligned with the delicate essence of tuna or sea bream sashimi than the intensity one might expect. For our group, the thicker slices paired more harmoniously with the garlic oil sauce, leading us to agree they’d be our sole choice next visit.

Savoring Makchang Sundae: A Sophisticated Regional Treasure

The meal’s emphasis on Gyeongsang simplicity was evident in the minimalist yet flavorful side dishes. One standout was the boiled cow head meat, tender and fragrant, paired beautifully with dipping sauces and generously refillable. Inspired by the high quality, we ventured further and ordered the makchang sundae—a sausage made from cow intestines and stuffed with a distinctive filling. Markedly refined, the sundae offered chewy, lightly smoked complexity far beyond Seoul’s typical versions. If traditional sundae is the culinary equivalent of processed American cheese, Malbang's makchang sundae felt akin to a matured artisanal variety with depth and rustic charm. The smoking toned down its aroma, likely to cater to local palates, but still achieved remarkable sophistication.

Served atop a bowl of hot water to maintain warmth, the sundae's presentation echoed the resourcefulness of rural Korean hospitality, where simple yet effective methods evoke comfort. Its bold flavor profile beckoned robust pairings—strong soju or wine—but the restaurant’s offerings lacked the necessary punch. While Gyeongju Beopju rice wine was pleasant, it wasn’t quite up to matching the sundae’s intensity, leaving me wishing for a beer to round off the experience.

Malbang Gukbap Soup: A Fitting Finale

Our experience concluded with Malbang Gukbap’s namesake beef soup, shared among the group. The addition of dried taro stems—a nod to Andong’s yukgaejang—elevated the dish’s layered flavors and texture, closing the meal with satisfying warmth and regional authenticity. The details encapsulated Malbang Gukbap’s ethos: every ingredient and preparation spoke of tradition and intentionality without unnecessary adornment.

A Culinary Spectacle Unlike Any Other

Emerging from Malbang Gukbap, its facade served as a metaphor for the transformative dining experience within. The meal was no simple indulgence; it resembled stepping into a theatrical performance or navigating a culinary amusement park. While I anticipated echoes of my hometown flavors as a native of Andong, the journey revealed itself as uniquely immersive—a dive into the vivid tapestry of North Gyeongsang’s gastronomic heritage.

The allure of Malbang Gukbap continues with its flagship location in Yongsan, styled in a similar vein. I’ve resolved to visit, perhaps revisiting the classic tales of Samguk Yusa that inspired part of the evening or indulging again in the works of Rothko. This rabbit hole of regional cuisine is one I’m eager to explore further.

Visit Malbang Gukbap

Address: 9, Gwangnaru-ro 8-gil, Seongdong-gu, Seoul (900 meters from Exit 9, Seongsu Station, Line 2) Menu Highlights: Mungtigi (W50,000), Bibimbap Set (W19,000; vegan option available), Pork Rib Kimchi Stew (W29,000)

*Eun-jung Kwon is a distinguished food journalist with over two decades of experience. At 50, she honed her craft at the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners (ICIF) in Piedmont, Italy. Her acclaimed works include Tuna Mayo for Wine and Tasting Italy through Pasta, alongside contributions to major publications such as The Kyunghyang Shinmun, Yonhap News, and Chosun Ilbo.