[Trending Restaurants] Savor the Heat: Spicy Boneless Skate Delight

# Nostalgic Coastal Delights: Spicy Skates at Nokwon Saengseonjjim Experience the traditional flavors of the East Sea at Nokwon Saengseonjjim’s original location in Goseong County, Gangwon Province. This charming eatery, located near Gyoham Beach, masterfully steams fresh skates (a type of ray) in a robust, spicy broth, providing diners with an authentic taste of coastal Korea. ## A Retreat to the Sea: Fresh Skates with a Kick Frequenting the Sokcho and Goseong regions over recent months has been a treat. These areas, bordered by mountains and the sea, offer breathtaking views and an abundance of fresh seafood. The clear skies contrast sharply with Seoul's often hazy ones, creating a magical atmosphere. Historically, Sokcho—a beloved tourist spot—was known for stops at Daepo Port and Yeonggeumjeong for raw fish or mulhoe (cold seafood soup). However, my regular visits have introduced me to lesser-known local delights like the region’s skate jjim (steamed skate). Unlike other regions that use semi-dried or fully dried skates, Sokcho-Goseong’s version uses fresh skates, resulting in incredibly tender meat. Skates are cartilaginous fish, like sharks. Unlike bony fish such as mackerel or tuna, cartilaginous fish have evolved without rigid skeletal systems, using oil-rich livers for buoyancy. Their tender flesh and soft bones make them ideal for steaming, a technique preserved in dishes like skate jjim. ## The Flavors of Sokcho-Style Skate Jjim Sokcho-style skate jjim, prepared in a bold, spicy red sauce, epitomizes Korean flavors. The meat falls apart effortlessly with a gentle prod from chopsticks, revealing its delicate texture. The cartilage is mostly chewable, and the spice-coated potatoes and radishes add depth to the dish. Imone in Yeongnang-dong, Sokcho, is a renowned spot for skate jjim. However, getting a table here is akin to winning a lottery—reservations are nearly impossible, and the dining experience feels as rushed as in Seoul’s busy eateries. While plentiful, I found the flavors too sweet, perhaps catering to urban tastes. ## A Hidden Gem: Nokwon Saengseonjjim A local friend recommended Nokwon Saengseonjjim in Gyoham-ri, Goseong. This original branch, located by the shore, exudes timeless charm with its low-rise slate-roofed building, reminiscent of simpler times. The smell and sound of the sea enhance the nostalgic ambiance. Despite its humble appearance, Nokwon has a 30-year history. While there is a newer branch along Route 7 in Yangyang near the Seoul-Yangyang Expressway, I was drawn to the Goseong original’s unpretentious charm. The wait for a table, spent on the inviting porch, felt almost welcome. In a cozy, low-ceilinged private room, we placed our order via a table-side screen, with a 20-minute preparation time—an agonizing wait given the tantalizing aromas. The skate jjim arrived, steaming and drenched in a fiery red sauce, well worth the wait. Unlike Imone’s softer hue, Nokwon’s sauce hinted at a generous use of red pepper powder or paste. Though it appeared intensely spicy, it struck a harmonious balance—savory and umami-rich without overwhelming heat. The sweetness was subtle, aligning with traditional tastes and pairing perfectly with a cold beer. The meal captured Goseong’s traditional spirit, offering a soulful, rustic experience that delighted both the palate and the heart. ## A Changing Landscape: Preserving Local Flavor After our meal, we visited nearby cafés with stunning coastal views. The marbled white rocks at Baekdo Beach against the azure waves resembled a miniature Dodamsambong Peaks in Danyang. Enjoying coffee with the serene vistas of late May, the salt-tinged breeze was a soothing finish. However, the rapid urbanization is hard to miss. High-rise apartments and resorts are emerging across Goseong, mirroring Sokcho’s transformation. Even culinary traditions are being influenced, with dishes becoming sweeter and less distinct, catering to Seoul’s mainstream tastes. This shift highlights the need to preserve unique, local flavors. Urban visitors seek authenticity—not standard fare echoing metropolitan tones. They come for genuine experiences like Nokwon Saengseonjjim’s fresh skate, which captures the emotional essence of Korea’s eastern coast. ### Details: Nokwon Saengseonjjim (Original Branch) - Address: 60, Gyoham-gil, Toseong-myeon, Goseong County, Gangwon Province - Menu Highlights: Skate Jjim (KRW 50,000–70,000), Assorted Seafood Jjim (KRW 45,000–65,000) --- This culinary journey was narrated by Eun-jung Kwon, a seasoned journalist turned food and wine enthusiast. With over two decades in journalism, Kwon pursued advanced Italian gastronomy studies in Piedmont, mastering the art of food pairing. Author of “Wine and Tuna Mayo” and “A Taste of Italy Through Pasta,” Kwon continues to write and lecture on her gastronomic adventures.