[Kwon Eun-jung's Wine Story] What to Try If You Can't Drink Pétrus

# Poupille: The Bordeaux Merlot That Surprises with Depth and Elegance In the realm of prestigious wines, few names are as revered as the legendary vineyards of France. Burgundy’s Romanée-Conti, often fetching over 10 million won per bottle, stands as the pinnacle of fine wine. Yet, in Bordeaux, another varietal shines: Merlot, particularly through the region’s premium offering, Petrus. While Cabernet Sauvignon often represents Bordeaux excellence, Merlot actually forms the foundation for some of the region's most coveted wines. ## Contrasting Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon is often considered the "father" of wines—strong and robust. In contrast, Merlot is likened to the "mother"—delicate, soft, and nurturing. This analogy reflects their unique growing conditions and resulting flavors. The Gironde River divides Bordeaux into the Left Bank and Right Bank. The Left Bank, with its gravelly soils, suits Cabernet Sauvignon perfectly. Conversely, the clay-heavy soils of the Right Bank are ideal for nurturing exceptional Merlot vines. This is where the legendary Petrus is crafted, often dubbed the crown jewel of Merlot-based wines globally. Interestingly, Petrus is not part of the traditional "First Growth" (Premier Cru) classification established in 1855. It originates from the small commune of Pomerol, proving that great wines can transcend rigid hierarchies. Unfortunately, this cultural nuance is sometimes overlooked when enthusiasts focus too much on labels and classifications rather than enjoying the sensory experience—a mindset that remains prevalent despite some improvements in markets like South Korea. ## The Unique Appeal of Petrus Petrus sets itself apart by cultivating its grapes on Pomerol's "blue clay" hillside, also known as black clay in English. This unique terroir imparts a distinctive aroma of truffles, black currant, and earthy depth. With an annual production of only around 20,000 bottles, Petrus is both rare and highly coveted. Prices per bottle typically range from 6 million to 9 million won, depending on the vintage, reflecting its scarcity and prestige. Historically, Petrus has enjoyed a reputation as a wine of royalty and statesmanship. Queen Elizabeth II served it at her coronation, and President John F. Kennedy famously counted it among his favorites. However, for the everyday wine enthusiast, Petrus remains largely out of reach due to its exclusivity. But for those who wish to experience the luxurious essence of Merlot without the exorbitant price tag, there are alternatives. ## An Affordable Gateway: Poupille A prime recommendation for Merlot lovers is Poupille, a wine priced at just 50,000 won yet offering remarkable depth and aging potential. Unlike many wines in its price bracket, Poupille is aged for over two years in new oak barrels and spends an additional year maturing in the bottle—a testament to its impressive craftsmanship. In one notable blind tasting, the 1999 Poupille remarkably stood its ground against the 1990 Petrus, achieving near parity in the competition. On the palate, Poupille offers a bouquet of primary fermentation notes (red berries), secondary oak influences (cedar, earth, leather, and vanilla), and tertiary bottle-aging aromas. A more premium version, Poupille Atypique, subtly elevates these flavors, as its name suggests (“Atypique” translates to “exceptional” in French). ## Pairing Poupille with Italian Comfort Food Poupille Atypique recently complemented a casual yet refined meal at a notable pizzeria near Hongdae in Seoul, adding a touch of elegance to the evening. The highlight was the calzone, a traditional southern Italian folded pizza packed with mozzarella cheese, paired with a fragrant arugula pizza. Situated on the restaurant’s top floor with stunning views of the Gyeongui Line Forest Park, the atmosphere exuded a calm European charm. Unlike many high-end wines that require time to fully open up, Poupille quickly revealed its complex aromas and flavors. Whether due to prior decanting or its relatively lighter body, this trait made it especially approachable for the evening’s mood. ## A Thoughtful Choice for Special Occasions That evening, the accompanying guest was a colleague recovering from a breakup, necessitating an atmosphere of comfort and care. For this reason, Poupille Atypique was a thoughtful choice—not only for its elegant taste and organic production methods (the wine is made biodynamically and without added sulfur dioxide), but also for its ability to resonate with its surroundings. Much like the wood-fired pizzas evoking traditional Italy, Poupille’s soft, smooth texture mirrored the playful breeze of a May evening, offering solace and joy. ### Final Thoughts Poupille exemplifies how a thoughtfully crafted wine can rival even the revered Petrus in specific aspects. Though less famous, it delivers remarkable performance for its price point, a testament to Bordeaux’s diverse offerings. In a wine market often swayed by grand classifications and historical reputations, Poupille reminds us that elegance lies in nuance—and great wine need not break the bank to create memorable experiences.