Exploring Sourdough Lab: Seoul’s Artisan Bread Renaissance

Nestled in Donggyo-dong, Seoul, Sourdough Lab is transforming the city’s bakery landscape with handcrafted loaves rooted in natural fermentation. By marrying organic French flour with house-cultivated wild yeast, Sourdough Lab presents bread that delivers depth of flavor alongside the hallmark sourdough texture—a crisp, golden crust paired with a tender, moist interior. With sourdough gaining global acclaim as both an artisanal and health-conscious staple, this bakery stands out as a beacon in Seoul’s growing bread movement.

A Daily Ritual Built Around Sourdough

For over two decades, my mornings have revolved around bread, coffee, and a simple tomato salad. Consuming fresh artisanal bread each day—not overly processed and free of unnecessary fats and sugars—has led me to adopt sourdough and ciabatta as my staples. The naturally fermented nature of these breads enhances their digestibility without skimping on flavor. Whether enjoying a slice with soup or opting for variations like focaccia, my mornings are fueled by bread that reflects quality craftsmanship and mindful preparation.

The Origins of Sourdough: A Tradition Rooted in History

Sourdough, as its name implies, is defined by its subtly tangy profile created through wild yeast fermentation. Unlike factory-produced bread that relies on chemical leavening agents, sourdough relies on natural processes to deliver its distinctive aroma, hearty texture, and nutrient-rich qualities. The slow fermentation moderates blood sugar spikes, aligning sourdough with the health benefits shared by other fermented staples like kimchi, doenjang, and soy sauce.

Historically, all bread began as sourdough—its roots stretch back thousands of years before the advent of commercial yeast. It wasn’t until the 18th century that Louis Pasteur scientifically explained fermentation, paving the way for mass production. Industrialized bread took off in the early 20th century, spearheaded by the U.S., but rustic loaves still held their appeal. Ironically, sourdough flourished in California during the 1840s Gold Rush. French immigrant Isidore Boudin opened his bakery in San Francisco, relying solely on flour and water to establish a tradition that endures today. This varietal of sourdough is still celebrated, a testament to its artisanal roots.

The Artisanal Revival in Seoul

Seoul is currently experiencing its own sourdough renaissance, and Sourdough Lab has become a touchstone for this movement. My search for quality bread began years ago when I relied on bakery bulk orders to stock up on loaves, freezing them for convenience. This led me to explore local artisanal bakeries, trying favorites like Tartine near Yongsan Station and Levain Rules near Seolleung Station. When I moved to Mapo, Sourdough Lab, tucked near Sinchon Station, became my go-to spot. The bakery’s commitment to organic, high-quality French flour and natural fermentation impressed me immediately, not only in its sourdough but also in its ciabatta, cranberry loaves, and olive bread—all offered at reasonable prices despite the premium ingredients.

The Focaccia Connection: Korea Meets Italy

Among its offerings, Sourdough Lab’s focaccia stands out as my personal favorite. Having honed my baking skills at a Turin-based restaurant in Italy, focaccia holds sentimental significance for me. Its recipe dates back to ancient Rome; the term “focaccia” derives from "focus," meaning hearth, and involves a simple yet delicate technique of dimpling fermented dough, coating it generously with olive oil and salt, and baking it to perfection. The deceptively straightforward process requires immense skill to master, as I learned through trial and error.

Sourdough Lab’s rendition of focaccia evokes memories of the loaves I enjoyed in Italy. In southern Italy, moist focaccia enriched with potatoes is especially popular as a table bread, surpassing even ciabatta and olive bread in demand. The simplicity of focaccia—much like Korea’s rustic country stews—underscores its allure. Sourdough Lab manages to capture this essence, offering a bread that transports me back to Italy while accommodating Korean tastes. Unsurprisingly, the focaccia is the first item to sell out each day, requiring customers to arrive early to reserve their favorite loaves.

The Rising Demand for Artisanal Bread in Korea

With healthier food trends gaining traction, Sourdough Lab has garnered growing attention from Seoul residents. While its loaves attract steadfast fans, competition for this bread intensifies with each visit. The bakery opens its doors after a break between 2 p.m. and 4 p.m. each day, and even early morning shoppers can find a line forming before the bakery opens.

The pâtissier behind Sourdough Lab is as passionate as the bread itself. Originally trained in culinary arts, his experience mirrors my journey—culinary school in Italy followed by a dedication to breadmaking back in Korea. When I asked about his thoughts on returning to kitchen work, he dismissed the idea, citing the demanding nature of fine dining. Despite the challenges of operating a bakery—continuous dough shaping, maintaining wild yeast starters, and early mornings—his passion for crafting sourdough endures. Such commitment only reaffirms my hope that this bakery will continue thriving for years to come.

Where to Find Sourdough Lab

• Address: 1F, 39 Sinchon-ro, Seodaemun-gu, Seoul
• Menu: Plain sourdough (8,000 won), Olive sourdough (9,000 won), Focaccia (6,500 won)

Eunjoong Kwon, a journalist with over two decades of experience, honed his culinary skills at Italy’s International Culinary Institute for Foreigners (ICIF) in Piedmont at age 50. Now back in Korea, he writes extensively on food, wine, and culture, contributing to major media outlets such as Kyunghyang Shinmun, Yonhap News, and Chosun Ilbo. He is the author of several books on Italian cuisine and wine.